Everything You Need to Know Before Buying an Electric Bike

Disclaimer: This is general information. Always check your local laws before riding.

If you are buying an e-bike in Australia in 2025, you are not alone. E-bikes are more popular than ever, zipping through city streets and suburban bike paths alike. Whether you are a first-time buyer or upgrading your current ride, the choices can be overwhelming. Motors, batteries, brakes, sensors, frame materials, tyres, and legal rules all influence which bike is right for you.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know before buying an e-bike in Australia. It gives an expert, unbiased look at the key factors and what to expect at different price tiers, so you can make an informed decision no matter the brand. Each section offers a short overview and links to detailed information for deeper reading:

• Everything you need to know about E-Bike Batteries
• Mid-drive motors compared to Hub Motors
• Choosing the right disk Brakes for E-Bikes
• The difference between Fat Tyres and City Tyres
• Choosing an Aluminium or Steel Bike Frame
• Everything you need to know about E-Bike Safety Equipment
• The difference between torque and cadence/speed sensors
• Practical guide to e-bike laws in Australia

If you want to skip the research and see bikes that already meet Australia’s watt and speed limits, start with our guide to Legal E-Bikes in Australia.

Mid-Drive vs Hub Drive Motors

One of the first decisions when buying an e-bike is the motor drive system. You will choose between mid-drive and hub drive. Both work well for Australian conditions, but they shape ride feel, hill performance, and maintenance in different ways.

Mid-Drive Motors

A mid-drive motor mounts at the crank near the pedals and drives through the chain. Because it uses your gears, it can keep the motor spinning in an efficient range and deliver strong torque on climbs. The result is a natural, intuitive feel, especially when paired with a torque sensor that responds to how hard you pedal. The low, central weight also helps balance and traction, which is useful off-road.

There are trade-offs. Mid-drives are more complex and usually cost more. Every burst of motor torque passes through the chain, cassette, and derailleur, which increases wear on heavier e-bikes. Service may require specialist tools. That said, well-known systems from Bosch, Shimano, and Bafang’s mid-drive line are reliable and deliver premium performance for riders who value hill efficiency and a bike-like ride feel.

Hub Drive Motors

A hub motor sits inside a wheel, most commonly the rear. It spins the wheel directly, so it does not add stress to the chain or cassette. This simplicity makes hub drives durable and low-maintenance. They suit commuting, beach paths, rail trails, and general fitness rides where steady assist and easy ownership matter.

The downsides are predictable. Hub motors do not use gears, so very steep hills can feel slower at a given legal power. Early cadence-based systems could feel surge-y when assist engaged, although modern controllers smooth this out. Rear hubs add weight to the wheel and, on cheaper builds, can stress spokes if the wheel is not well made. Even so, hub drives remain popular for commuters because they are straightforward and affordable.

Reliability considerations

Not all motors are equal. Within both categories you will find premium brands and off-brand units. Bafang is one of the world’s largest e-bike motor makers and has a reputation for good quality at a fair price. Bafang hub motors are known as workhorses that often last thousands of kilometres. Generic high-wattage motors on very cheap bikes can save money upfront but may lack quality control or support. If you see budget e-bikes advertised with big watt numbers at low prices, be cautious. A reputable brand motor such as Bafang, Bosch, or Shimano provides extra peace of mind.

Read our full comparison of mid-drive and hub motors here.

Hydraulic Disk Brakes

Good brakes are absolutely crucial on an e-bike. E-bikes are heavier and often faster than regular bikes, so you will want brakes that can confidently handle the extra momentum. Most quality e-bikes today use disc brakes. Among these, hydraulic disc brakes are preferred for stronger and more consistent stopping power compared with mechanical disc or rim brakes. Not all hydraulic brakes are equal, and one key difference is the number of pistons in the brake calipers.

4-piston hydraulic brakes

Four-piston hydraulic brakes mean each caliper has two pistons on each side, four in total pressing the pads. They are considered a gold standard for e-bikes. With four pistons squeezing the rotor, you get greater braking force and better heat dissipation on long descents. More pistons spread the pressure and allow larger pads, which improves friction and reduces brake fade (fade is the loss of braking power when brakes overheat). The result is stronger stopping power and better modulation. You can brake hard when needed and also feather the brakes smoothly. Tektro offers e-bike specific hydraulic brakes, such as the E-Series, with multi-piston calipers designed to safely slow heavy bikes at speed. True North Bikes leans toward Tektro four-piston systems, which provide confidence-inspiring stopping power even on steep hills or with cargo.

2-piston hydraulic brakes

Two-piston, or single-piston-per-side, brakes are common on many mid-range bikes and are still perfectly serviceable. These have one piston pushing a pad on each side of the rotor, two pistons total. A well-made two-piston hydraulic brake can provide good braking for moderate speeds. However, compared with four-piston units, two-piston brakes have slightly less outright power and can heat up faster on long downhill runs. Many e-bikes under about $3,000 come with two-piston hydraulic discs to keep costs down. The good news is that these can often be upgraded later if needed.

Mechanical disc brakes

Some e-bikes, particularly at lower price points, still use mechanical disc brakes. These use a cable system and typically push only one pad against the rotor, which is less efficient. Mechanical brakes require more hand force and regular adjustment. They work in a pinch, but on an e-bike you will appreciate the minimal maintenance and higher power of hydraulics.

What to check on a test ride

When you test ride, pay attention to the brakes. A higher-end e-bike should have a firm, confidence-inspiring lever feel, with no squealing or fading under a hard stop. If you plan to ride at 25+ km/h regularly, or down big hills, investing in robust brakes, or upgrading to four-piston calipers and larger rotors, is well worth it for safety.

Read more in full guide to E-Bike Brakes here.

Battery Basics: Understanding Voltage, Watt-Hours, and Safety Certifications

When buying an e-bike, the battery is one of the most important parts of the system. It sets your range, influences how the bike feels on hills, and determines how long your ride can last before recharging. Buyers often get caught up in single numbers like volts or amp-hours, but to understand real-world performance you need to look at the complete picture.

Voltage (V): how the system pushes power

Voltage is the electrical “pressure” that moves current through the motor. Most e-bikes in Australia use either 36 V or 48 V systems. A 48 V setup can deliver the same power with less current, which means cooler operation, less strain, and a more responsive ride on hills and starts. It does not guarantee longer range on its own, but it often makes the bike feel livelier. A well-built 36 V commuter can still perform well on flatter routes, though heavier bikes and fat-tyre builds benefit from 48 V.

Watt-hours (Wh): the true measure of range

Watt-hours equal volts × amp-hours (Ah). This is the best single figure for battery capacity because it reflects total stored energy. For example, a 48 V × 20 Ah pack provides 960 Wh, while a 48 V × 14 Ah pack delivers 672 Wh. In practice, a 360–500 Wh pack might give 30–50 km of range, while 600–960 Wh can stretch to 60–100 km or more, depending on terrain, rider weight, tyre type, and assist level. Comparing Wh, not Ah alone, gives a more realistic idea of how far you will get per charge.

48 V vs 36 V in practice

With the same Ah rating, a 48 V battery carries about 33% more Wh than a 36 V version. The higher voltage also lets the controller draw less current for the same power, which can extend component life. Controller limits are just as important: a 48 V / 15 A controller can allow roughly 720 W peak input, while 48 V / 20 A allows about 960 W. Even though Australian law caps motors at 250 W continuous (or 500 W continuous in NSW), those short peak bursts from the controller are what help with quick starts and hill climbs.

Choosing the right pack

Start by thinking about your longest or toughest ride. If you only commute 10 km on flat paths, a smaller pack keeps weight and cost down. If you ride longer distances, tackle hills, or carry cargo, look for higher Wh with a matched controller. Always prioritise quality, certified packs made with reliable cells, because long-term performance and safety come from build quality, not just numbers on a spec sheet.

Read our full guide to e-bike batteries here.

Fat Tyres vs City Tyres

When buying an e-bike, tyre choice makes a big difference to how the bike rides. Most models fall into two categories: fat tyres and city or commuter tyres. Each has clear benefits and trade-offs that affect comfort, efficiency, and range.

Fat Tyres: stability and comfort on rough ground

Fat tyres are very wide, usually 3.8″ to 5″, and are common on “fat bike” style e-bikes. They put a large patch of rubber on the ground, which improves stability and grip on loose or uneven surfaces such as sand, gravel, snow, or mud. The high air volume also acts as natural suspension. Run them at low pressure, around 10–15 PSI, and they absorb bumps and vibrations, giving a smoother ride on rough streets or trails.

This makes fat tyres ideal for comfort and control, but there are trade-offs. They are heavier, slower to accelerate, and create more rolling resistance. On smooth pavement, the extra friction reduces efficiency and cuts range compared with narrower tyres. Tests show that swapping from knobby, wide tyres to smoother, thinner ones can save 20% or more in energy use. Fat tyres also make bikes heavier to handle, and steering can feel less nimble. For many riders, the appeal is worth it. If you ride on soft ground or want maximum stability, fat tyres deliver a plush ride and go-anywhere versatility.

City/Commuter Tyres: efficiency and agility on hard surfaces

Standard commuter tyres range from 1.5″ to 2.5″ wide with a smoother tread. They are lighter and roll faster than fat tyres, which brings three big benefits: better efficiency, quicker acceleration, and more range per charge. If you mostly ride on paved paths or city streets, these tyres help you get the most from your battery because less energy is wasted deforming rubber with every rotation. They also make bikes feel more agile, with sharper handling that helps in traffic or on tight corners.

The trade-off is comfort and traction. City tyres at higher pressures transmit more bumps, and while suspension forks can help, they do not match the cushioning of fat tyres. On sand, snow, or loose ground, city tyres may sink or slip where a fat tyre floats. Still, for most commuters and fitness riders, the efficiency gain outweighs the loss of soft-surface performance.

Finding the right balance

Think about where you will ride most often. If your routes are paved, a standard-width tyre will make the bike faster, lighter, and give you the range promised on the spec sheet. If you expect to tackle sand at the beach, unsealed tracks, or just want the distinctive look and smooth ride of a fat bike, wide tyres are a better match. Be prepared for a bit more charging and a heavier bike overall. Some riders choose “plus-size” tyres in the 2.6″–3″ range, which try to balance comfort with efficiency.

For more detail on tyre choice and how it affects range, read our full article on Fat Tyres vs City Tyres linked here.

Frame Material: Aluminium vs Steel

The frame is the backbone of your e-bike. Most bikes you will consider when buying an e-bike use either aluminium (alloy) or steel. Both work well on e-bikes, but they trade weight, comfort, durability, and upkeep in different ways.

Aluminium frames

Most modern e-bikes, especially above $2,000, use aluminium alloys such as 6061. Aluminium is light and stiff. That lower weight matters on e-bikes because motors and batteries already add kilos. Saving a few kilograms in the frame makes the bike easier to handle, lift, and accelerate. On the road, aluminium often feels quick and responsive with a direct transfer of pedal effort.

Aluminium also resists rust. It will not corrode in wet or coastal conditions the way untreated steel can, so paint chips are less of a worry. Builders can shape aluminium into complex sections for internal batteries or suspension linkages, and it is plenty strong for everyday riding.

There are trade-offs. Aluminium is more rigid and has little natural flex. On rough streets, that can feel a bit harsher, which brands usually offset with suspension, wider tyres, or tuned tube shapes. If an aluminium frame does crack, repairs are harder. Fixing it often needs specialist welding and heat treatment, which is not always feasible. The good news is that frame failures are rare when you buy a reputable product and use it as intended.

Steel frames

Steel is the classic bicycle material and still appears on e-bikes, especially retro-styled cruisers, cargo bikes, and custom builds. Steel is strong and durable with a toughness that absorbs road buzz. A quality steel frame has a smooth, composed ride. It flexes just enough to take the edge off potholes and rough pavement, which is welcome at e-bike speeds. Steel also handles heavy loads well, one reason many cargo and child-seat builds choose it.

Steel brings practical benefits too. If bent or cracked, it is comparatively easy to repair. A competent welder can often bring a steel frame back to life, which helps for long-term ownership or touring. The downsides are weight and corrosion. A steel e-bike frame can weigh several kilos more than an equivalent aluminium frame, so the bike will feel heavier to pedal and lift, even if the motor masks some of that when riding. Steel can rust if paint is damaged and moisture gets in. Good paints and treated tubes help, but you should touch up deeper scratches. Steel frames are also less common at the mid-to-high end today, so style and model choices may be narrower than with aluminium.

Which should you choose

Choose aluminium if you want a lighter, snappier bike with minimal maintenance in coastal climates. Choose steel if you value ride comfort, load-carrying toughness, and a classic feel, and you do not mind extra weight. Both can be excellent on e-bikes. Pick the material that matches your priorities, your routes, and how you plan to use and maintain the bike. To learn more, read our full article on Aluminium vs Steel Bike Frames.

Required Safety Equipment (Lights, Bell, Brakes)

No matter how fancy an e-bike’s tech is, it must meet basic safety requirements – both by law and for your own well-being. In Australia, a road-legal bicycle (and thus e-bike) is required to have the following equipment:

Safety

• Brakes: At least one working brake is required by law (and obviously any decent bike will have two, one for each wheel). Test ride the bike to ensure the brakes engage effectively. E-bikes should have strong brakes due to their weight and speed; as discussed above, hydraulic disc brakes are preferred for reliable stopping. Always check that brake levers are firm and that the bike stops smoothly without drama.
  
• Bell or Horn: A bicycle in Australia must be fitted with an audible warning device, typically a bell, to alert pedestrians and others. This is not just a recommendation, it’s legally mandated and you can be fined if you remove it. Fortunately, most e-bikes come with a simple bell. Make sure whatever you get has one (and use it courteously on shared paths!).
  
• Lights and Reflectors: If you ride at night or in low-light conditions, front and rear lights are mandatory. Specifically, a white light on the front and a red light on the rear (steady or flashing) are required when riding at night or in conditions with reduced visibility. Reflectors are also typically required, a red reflector at the back, white or yellow reflectors on pedals or wheels. Check the lumens or brightness; urban riders might want 200+ lumens front lights to see and be seen, whereas casual path riders might be fine with less. Do not ride at night without lights – it’s dangerous and illegal.
  
• Helmet: While not part of the bike itself, note that helmet use is compulsory for riders in Australia. Make sure to get a correctly certified bicycle helmet and wear it on every ride. E-bike speeds can be high, so consider a helmet rated for e-bike or speed-pedelec use (they offer a bit more coverage/protection).

Other Gear

It’s advisable to have front and rear reflectors (usually standard), and many e-bikes include or can fit wheel reflectors or reflective tyre sidewalls. In some states, you may need a red rear reflector even if you have a light – check local regulations. A good set of brake lights (some e-bikes activate the rear light brighter during braking) and daytime running lights can enhance safety. Also consider a mirror and reflective clothing if you’ll ride in traffic.

All new e-bikes sold by reputable shops in Australia should already meet these equipment requirements out of the box. If you’re converting a bike with a kit or buying second-hand, double-check that these safety features are present and functional. Not only will this keep you legal, it will also make your rides far safer. For a more detailed look at E-Bike safety equipment in Australia, read our full article linked here.

Torque vs Speed Sensor

E-bikes provide pedal assistance using one of two main sensor types: torque sensors or cadence (speed) sensors. This technical choice has a big impact on how the bike feels to ride when you are buying an e-bike and comparing models.

Torque sensor

A torque sensor measures how hard you are pedalling, the actual force on the pedals. Pedal harder and the motor gives more help. Pedal gently and the system adds just a little. The result is a natural, intuitive ride that feels in tune with your effort. Many riders describe it as “pedal harder, go faster; pedal soft, get a light assist.” Because assistance scales with your input, the system avoids blasting full power when you do not need it. That can improve efficiency and extend range compared with cadence-only systems, especially on climbs and during quick accelerations.

Torque sensing appears on most mid-drive motors, including well-known lines from Bosch, Shimano, and Yamaha, and on many higher-end hub-motor e-bikes. The main downside is cost. Torque-based systems are more complex, so you usually see them on pricier models. For riders who enjoy cycling and want the motor to enhance rather than replace their effort, torque sensing is ideal. It also shines on hills. As soon as you press into the pedals on an incline, the sensor signals the motor to push, which can prevent the wobble or stall that happens when assistance arrives late.

Cadence (speed) sensor

A cadence sensor detects whether you are turning the cranks and how fast. It typically uses a magnetic ring on the crank. When it senses rotation, it tells the motor to deliver a preset level of power. The assist does not respond to how hard you press, only to the fact that you are pedalling and the cadence. Many cadence-based e-bikes offer assist levels (1, 2, 3, and so on) that map to a fixed percentage of available power. For example, level 1 might give 30 percent of max power whenever you pedal, while level 5 gives 100 percent whenever you pedal, regardless of effort.

The advantages are simplicity and price. Cadence systems are easier to implement and cost less. They also allow a very easy ride if that is what you want. You can “ghost pedal,” turning the cranks lightly to trigger the sensor while the motor does most of the work. Some riders with knee issues prefer this because it reduces strain. The trade-offs are feel and timing. There can be a short delay when you start or stop pedalling before the motor responds. Power can feel more on-off than proportional, which creates a small surge that does not always match your intent. Better designs have improved response times, and many riders adapt quickly, but if you test a torque-sensed bike back to back with a cadence-sensed bike, you will notice the difference.

Cadence sensors are common on fat tyre e-bikes and deliver reliable assistance; just be aware of the potential “mushy” or laggy sensation at very low speeds. For safety, remember that some cadence systems continue to apply power until the cranks stop turning. When manoeuvring in traffic or tight spaces, tap the brakes to cut the motor instantly.

Which sensor suits you

Torque sensor systems give finer control and a more bicycle-like experience. They reward active riding and work well across varied terrain. Cadence sensor systems provide consistent, push-button power and are popular on more affordable models, ideal for relaxed cruising. Some newer e-bikes combine both approaches, using a torque sensor for primary control and cadence to fine-tune response, and a few let you switch modes. To learn more, read our detailed article that compares Torque and Cadence Sensors.

Puncture-Resistant vs Regular Tyres

Flat tyres can ruin a commute. The good news is you can cut the risk dramatically with puncture-resistant tyres, liners, or sealant. When buying an e-bike, it’s worth deciding how much protection you want up front.

Puncture-resistant Tyres

Puncture-resistant tyres use an extra layer under the tread — Kevlar, nylon, or a thicker rubber belt — to block glass, thorns, and sharp debris. Common examples include Vee Huntsman and CST Big Boat. Riders often report going from frequent punctures to almost none, and these casings tend to wear well over time. That reliability is why True North fits puncture-resistant tyres on fat-tyre models for Australian commuters who can’t afford roadside tube swaps.

There are trade-offs. Reinforced tyres are heavier and roll a bit slower than sportier options, so the ride can feel less lively and range can dip slightly. They can also be tighter on the rim, which makes rare repairs a little harder. Expect to pay more than for basic tyres. For most everyday riders, the peace of mind is worth it.

Regular Tyres

Regular tyres skip the protective belt. They’re lighter, often feel more supple, and suit e-MTBs, road e-bikes, or anyone chasing maximum speed and minimal weight. If you rarely encounter glass or thorns, regular tyres can be fine and are usually easier to mount and remove. To add some insurance, use a tube sealant (for example, Slime) to self-seal small punctures, or consider a tubeless setup with liquid sealant if your rims and tyres support it. Tubeless is common on high-end mountain bikes, but converting an e-bike depends on the specific wheel and tyre combo.

For most commuters, puncture-resistant tyres are the best default. A small efficiency hit beats fixing a flat in work clothes. If your bike didn’t ship with them, you can upgrade later. Many riders go hybrid: a puncture-resistant tyre on the rear (harder to remove and more prone to flats due to load), and a faster-rolling tyre on the front. Whatever you choose, keep tyres at the recommended pressure, and inspect the tread for embedded shards before they work through. That simple habit prevents many flats and keeps your e-bike ready to roll.

(We’ll have more tips on avoiding flats and the best puncture-resistant tyre models in an upcoming [E-Bike Maintenance 101] article.)

Legal Speed and Power Limits 

When buying an e-bike in Australia, it helps to know the rules that define a legal bicycle. Understanding the limits keeps you compliant and makes spec sheets easier to compare.

Power limit

In most of Australia, a road-legal e-bike is limited to 250 W continuous motor output, aligned with the European EPAC standard. New South Wales allows up to 500 W continuous for a compliant pedelec. This refers to continuous power. Many motors can produce higher short peaks for a few seconds, which is generally acceptable as long as the rated continuous power is within 250 W or 500 W. If you see an e-bike marketed as 750 W or 1000 W for road use, be cautious. On public roads and paths that is not a bicycle; it is treated as a motorcycle and would require registration. Some retailers promote high-wattage bikes without making this clear. To avoid hassles, stick to 250 W (or 500 W in NSW) compliant models.

Speed limit

Motor assistance must taper and cut off by 25 km/h. You can pedal faster, but the motor cannot add power beyond that point. Most road-legal e-bikes start reducing assist around 23–25 km/h so the transition feels smooth. For commuting, 25 km/h is a solid cruising speed; faster assisted speeds move you into motorbike territory in the eyes of the law.

Throttle rules

Australian regulations distinguish pedal-assist from throttle operation. A legal pedelec may include a throttle, but it is restricted to 6 km/h without pedalling, essentially a walk-assist or get-started feature. Above about 6 km/h, you must be pedalling for the motor to provide power. Older 200 W throttle allowances existed under legacy rules, but as of 2025 the 250 W / 25 km/h pedelec standard is the main category. Many bikes sold here include throttles configured to these rules.

Why comply

Beyond legality, exceeding these limits risks fines, bike confiscation, and insurance problems if you crash. The good news is that many excellent e-bikes meet Australian specs and still feel lively, with strong launches and capable hill performance within the rules. Smart controller tuning, mid-drive efficiency, and torque sensors help you get the most from the allowed power while staying compliant.

Bottom line for buyers

Stick to 250 W / 25 km/h, or 500 W continuous in NSW, when buying. Reputable Australian brands and dealers adhere to this. If an online seller promotes 750 W or 1000 W plus for road use, you are looking at a motor vehicle, not a bicycle. That may be fine for private property, but not for roads or shared paths. Some riders derestrict bikes, but once unlocked they are no longer bicycles under the law.

For a thorough breakdown of Australian e-bike law updates and what’s legal where, see our dedicated article on E-Bike Laws in Australia.

We hope this 2025 e-bike buyer’s guide has demystified the key considerations for you. E-bikes are a fantastic investment in mobility and fun, armed with the knowledge of motors, batteries, brakes, tyres, sensors, and legalities, you can shop confidently and find an e-bike that perfectly suits your needs. Happy riding!

Further reading

• Mid Drive vs Hub Motors: Compare ride feel, hill performance, maintenance, and reliability so you can choose the right drive for your riding.
• E-Bike Batteries Guide: Understand volts, amps, watt-hours, real-world range, charging habits, and why IEC-certified Samsung and Panasonic cells matter.
• E-Bike Brakes Guide: Learn how hydraulic and mechanical brakes differ, what 2-piston vs 4-piston means, and how rotor size affects stopping power.
• Fat Tyres vs City Tyres: Learn how different tyres impact range, load, performance, and rider experience in our detailed comparison.
• Aluminium vs Steel Bike Frames: Learn how frame material affects weight, comfort, strength, and lifespan, and find out which type of frame is best suited to your riding needs and environment.
• E-Bike Safety Equipment Australia: Learn which lights, reflectors, bells, and brakes are legally required, how to choose compliant gear, and what to check before riding to stay safe and road-legal.
• Torque vs Cadence Sensors: Everything you need to know about how choosing a torque or cadence sensor system affects how your e-bike rides.
• E-Bike Laws in Australia: This guide gives you the simple, practical version of what’s legal on public roads and paths.